From the Argentinian Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
 </li>
 <li>
 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
 </li>
</ul>

From the Chilean Side
<ul>
 <li>
 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
 </li>
 <li>
 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
 </li>
 <li>
 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
 </li>
</ul>

The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.

Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

Easier to get to from Chile, from Argentina it's a long drive from Salta.

Llullaillaco stands as a testament to nature's rugged beauty at the border of Argentina and Chile. Towering at around 6,739 meters, it ranks as the third-highest active volcano in the world. The climb to its summit is a challenging yet rewarding experience, offering a unique blend of high-altitude and desert conditions. The approach is typically made from the Chilean side, with the arid Atacama Desert as your backdrop. The terrain is a mix of scree and volcanic rock, which can make for a demanding ascent requiring careful navigation and acclimatization. The remote location and harsh environment demand thorough preparation and respect for the mountain's austere beauty.

The ascent of Llullaillaco is not for the faint of heart. Given its elevation, climbers must be vigilant about altitude sickness and prepare for rapidly changing weather conditions. The route itself is not technically difficult, but the challenges lie in the extreme altitude and the barren landscape that offers little in terms of natural shelter. The final push to the summit is an exhilarating endeavor, requiring a pre-dawn start to take advantage of the stable morning weather. Those who reach the top are rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Andean peaks and the expansive salt flats below. It's a humbling experience that few mountains can match.

For those considering this formidable climb, it's important to note that there are currently 7 guides offering expeditions to Llullaillaco. While it's certainly possible to ascend without a guide, having local expertise can enhance the experience and ensure a safer journey. Regardless of your choice, Llullaillaco promises an unforgettable adventure for those willing to tackle its formidable slopes.

When climbing from Chile a border zone permit from DIFROL is needed, but nobody will check this. 

The Chilean side has a basic refuge, but as the drive-able track goes higher this is unlikely necessary.

Llullaillaco

The mountain Pissis in Argentina stands as a formidable challenge for those who seek high-altitude adventure. Rising to an impressive height of 6,793 meters, Pissis claims the title of the third highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. Situated in the dry and desolate Puna de Atacama, the mountain is characterized by its vast, barren landscapes and a unique blend of volcanic features. The ascent offers an exhilarating experience, with broad ridges and expansive snowfields that demand a high level of endurance and technical skill. Climbers should be prepared for long days and cold, windy conditions that can test even the most seasoned mountaineers.

Approaching Pissis requires a long, arduous journey through remote terrain. The climb itself is not technically demanding, but the altitude and harsh environment present significant challenges. The standard route typically involves a trek across a high plateau, followed by a gradual ascent over scree and snow. The final push to the summit often includes navigating through icy patches and loose rocks, requiring careful footing and solid acclimatization. The panoramic views from the top encompass the vastness of the Andes and the stark beauty of the surrounding desert, rewarding the effort with a breathtaking vista.

Given its isolation, Pissis sees fewer climbers compared to other Andean giants. The solitude is part of its allure, offering a sense of remoteness and adventure. While the logistical demands are high, the mountain remains accessible to those with experience in high-altitude climbs. For those considering an expedition, it is worth noting that there are 4 guides offering climbs up Pissis, providing support for those who seek to conquer this impressive peak. Whether you tackle it independently or with assistance, Pissis promises a memorable and challenging experience.

Pissis

When you set your sights on Nevado del Plomo in Argentina, you're looking at a peak that stands at an impressive 6,070 meters. Nestled in the southern Andes, this mountain offers a climb that's both challenging and rewarding. The ascent is typically approached from the west, with routes that vary in difficulty, allowing for a range of experiences depending on your chosen path. The terrain is characterized by snow and ice, demanding proficiency in technical mountaineering skills, particularly when you approach the summit.

As you make your way up Nevado del Plomo, you'll encounter mixed conditions and need to be prepared for sudden weather shifts. The high altitude means acclimatization is crucial, so plan your ascent with enough time to adjust. The climbing season typically runs from December to March, when conditions are most favorable. You'll find the mountain less crowded compared to other popular peaks in the region, offering a more solitary and serene environment.

Approaching the summit, the views open up to stunning vistas of the Andes and nearby peaks. The sense of isolation and the sheer beauty of the landscape make the climb a memorable experience. There are about 10 guides available who offer expeditions to Nevado del Plomo, providing logistics support and local expertise if needed. Tailor your climb according to your experience and preferences, and you'll find this mountain a worthy addition to your climbing repertoire.

Nevado del Plomo

Acotango, straddling the border between Chile and Bolivia, offers a compelling challenge for seasoned mountaineers. This volcanic peak rises to an impressive height of about 6,052 meters, providing a rewarding ascent with breathtaking views. The climb is characterized by its mixed terrain, ranging from scree slopes to snow and ice sections, which demand technical skill and careful navigation. While Acotango isn't the most difficult climb in the region, its high altitude and changing weather conditions require solid acclimatization and preparedness.

The route to the summit is generally approached from the south side, often starting from the Chilean side for logistical ease. Climbers typically set off from a high camp located around 5,000 meters. The ascent is straightforward but demands attention, especially in the final sections where the path narrows and the ice can present a challenge. Experienced mountaineers will appreciate the strategic approach required, balancing speed and caution to accommodate the thin air and potential for rapid weather shifts. The panoramic views from the summit, spanning both Chile and Bolivia, are a fitting reward for those who conquer its heights.

Given its location and conditions, Acotango is best tackled during the dry season, with climbers favoring the months from May to September for optimal conditions. While the mountain can be ascended independently, six guides offer expeditions for those who prefer logistical support. Their expertise can enhance the experience, but experienced climbers will find that Acotango can be a fulfilling ascent with the right preparation and respect for its unique challenges.

Chile Montana Trips & Expeditions - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Chile Montana Trips & Expeditions

Ojos del Salado
$3,550

Llullaillaco
$3,200

Pissis
$3,580

Nevado del Plomo
$1,190

Acotango
$350

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Chile Montana Trips & Expeditions - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Chile Montana Trips & Expeditions

Ojos del Salado$3,550

Llullaillaco$3,200

Pissis$3,580