Tupungato, a formidable peak straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, stands tall at 6,570 meters, offering a challenging climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is not for the faint-hearted, with routes presenting a mix of steep slopes and rugged terrain. The mountain's relative remoteness adds an extra layer of difficulty, requiring climbers to be self-sufficient and well-prepared for a multi-day expedition. Weather can be unpredictable, with high winds and sudden temperature drops, so readiness for harsh conditions is essential.

Most climbers approach Tupungato from the Chilean side, utilizing the Valle de los Yaretas as the traditional base camp area. The approach involves navigating through valleys and high-altitude plateaus before tackling the more technical sections. The upper reaches of the mountain demand proficiency in glacier travel and crevasse navigation, with the final push to the summit often requiring crampons and ice axes. Those who reach the top are rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the Andes, a testament to the mountain's grandeur and the climber's perseverance.

Given the technical and logistical challenges of climbing Tupungato, it's no surprise that it remains less frequented compared to other Andean giants. The mountain's allure lies in its untouched nature and the solitude it offers, a rare opportunity for introspection amidst the vast wilderness. For those interested in organized expeditions, there are currently 9 guides offering climbs up this majestic peak, providing options for those who prefer a structured approach to their ascent.

Tupungato

From the Argentinian Side
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 By Bus: Take a bus from major cities like La Rioja or Catamarca to Tinogasta. From Tinogasta, transfer to another bus or shared taxi to Fiambalá.
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 By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis are available from Tinogasta to Fiambalá, costing around $10 USD for the 50-55 km ride.
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 4x4 Rental: From Fiambalá, rent a 4x4 vehicle to Refugio Cazadero Grande. You can also arrange for mulas (mules) to carry equipment from this point.
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From the Chilean Side
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 By Bus: Travel by bus to Copiapó. From Copiapó, organize transportation to Laguna Verde.
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 Tour Operators: Many tour operators in Copiapó offer packages that include transport to Laguna Verde and further up to Refugio Atacama or Refugio Tejos.
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 4x4 Vehicle: Rent a 4x4 vehicle in Copiapó for the drive to Refugio Claudio Lucero and then to Refugio Atacama (5200m) or Refugio Tejos (5800m).
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The Ojos del Salado is a fascinating ascent for any dedicated mountaineer eager to test their skills on the world's tallest active volcano. Straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, it towers at an impressive height of 6,893 meters, making it the highest summit in Chile and the second highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain offers a unique combination of challenges, including high altitude and extreme weather conditions, which demand respect and careful preparation. The route is typically approached from the Chilean side, with the climb often starting from the Atacama Desert, adding a distinct arid environment to the experience.

Climbing Ojos del Salado requires a solid understanding of high-altitude mountaineering, as the air becomes thin and the weather can be unpredictable. The ascent is usually non-technical, but the altitude can be a significant factor, demanding excellent acclimatization. Many climbers opt for the route that involves a combination of scree slopes, boulder fields, and a final summit push that includes a short scramble. The expansive views from the summit are a worthwhile reward, offering an unparalleled vista of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

Despite the harsh conditions, the climb is a sought-after challenge for those looking to conquer one of the highest peaks in the Andes. With only about 25 guides offering expeditions, planning ahead is crucial if you want to secure a spot on a guided climb. Whether tackling the mountain independently or with a guide, the Ojos del Salado provides an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression on those who summit its lofty heights.

The starting point for the ascent, Base Camp provides a solid foundation for acclimatization.

Base Camp (Atacama Refuge)

Tejos Refuge serves as the first overnight stop, offering shelter and a chance to further acclimatize.

Tejos Refuge

The summit of Ojos del Salado, at 6893 meters, rewards climbers with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment.

Ojos del Salado Summit

The Ojos del Salado climbing itinerary includes essential stops such as Base Camp, Tejos Refuge, Atacama Camp, and Berlin Hut, each strategically positioned for acclimatization. The final ascent to the summit at 6893 meters provides experienced climbers with a challenging yet rewarding endeavor.

To climb Ojos del Salado, you need specific permits depending on whether you start from the Chilean or Argentinian side. These permits cover access to the climbing areas and sometimes include additional requirements such as an equipment list.

Required for climbing from the Chilean side, covering access to the Ojos del Salado Zone.

Climbing Permit (Chile)

Required for crossing the border from Argentina to Chile, obtainable in Copiapó.

Border Permit (Chile)

Optional: Register with the police in Fiambalá before leaving for the mountains.

Registration (Argentina)

Tejos Refuge 

Base-camp (Atacama Refuge)

Ojos del Salado

Mercedario, nestled in the Andes of Argentina, stands as a formidable challenge for seasoned mountaineers. At a height of 6,720 meters, it's the eighth highest peak in the Andes and offers an experience distinct from the more trafficked routes of Aconcagua. The mountain's rugged terrain is characterized by a mix of rocky and icy sections, demanding both technical skill and endurance. The approach itself is an adventure, with the desolate beauty of the region providing a stark backdrop to the climb.

The climb up Mercedario is not overly technical, but its high altitude and remote location require careful planning and preparation. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, with fierce winds and sudden temperature drops, especially as you ascend past the 5,000-meter mark. The normal route, often favored by climbers, involves a series of high camps that allow for acclimatization and strategic rest. Though the ascent might not have the same reputation for difficulty as some other peaks, the sheer isolation and the need for self-reliance make it a true test of mountaineering prowess.

With its stunning views and the quiet solitude of its slopes, Mercedario offers a rewarding challenge for those looking to push their limits. The summit provides a breathtaking panorama of the Andes, a fitting reward for the effort it takes to reach it. For those interested in tackling this peak, there are currently 3 guides that offer expeditions to Mercedario, ensuring that climbers have the support needed for a successful ascent.

Andes Specialists - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Andes Specialists

Tupungato
$2,950

Ojos del Salado
$3,100

Mercedario
$3,250

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Andes Specialists - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Andes Specialists

Tupungato$2,950

Ojos del Salado$3,100

Mercedario$3,250

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Tupungato
$2,950

Ojos del Salado
$3,100

Mercedario
$3,250