Tupungato, a formidable peak straddling the border between Argentina and Chile, stands tall at 6,570 meters, offering a challenging climb that attracts seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is not for the faint-hearted, with routes presenting a mix of steep slopes and rugged terrain. The mountain's relative remoteness adds an extra layer of difficulty, requiring climbers to be self-sufficient and well-prepared for a multi-day expedition. Weather can be unpredictable, with high winds and sudden temperature drops, so readiness for harsh conditions is essential.

Most climbers approach Tupungato from the Chilean side, utilizing the Valle de los Yaretas as the traditional base camp area. The approach involves navigating through valleys and high-altitude plateaus before tackling the more technical sections. The upper reaches of the mountain demand proficiency in glacier travel and crevasse navigation, with the final push to the summit often requiring crampons and ice axes. Those who reach the top are rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the Andes, a testament to the mountain's grandeur and the climber's perseverance.

Given the technical and logistical challenges of climbing Tupungato, it's no surprise that it remains less frequented compared to other Andean giants. The mountain's allure lies in its untouched nature and the solitude it offers, a rare opportunity for introspection amidst the vast wilderness. For those interested in organized expeditions, there are currently 9 guides offering climbs up this majestic peak, providing options for those who prefer a structured approach to their ascent.

Tupungato

Located on the border between Argentina and Chile, Marmolejo stands as a remarkable challenge for seasoned mountaineers. At an elevation of approximately 6,108 meters (20,039 feet), it is the southernmost six-thousand-meter peak in the Andes. The climb is typically approached from the Chilean side, with ascents often starting from the Maipo Valley. The route takes you through a variety of terrain, from rocky paths to snow-covered slopes, offering a diverse and engaging climb. The mountain's isolation adds to its allure, providing a sense of solitude rare in more frequented ranges.

The ascent of Marmolejo is non-technical but demands a high level of physical fitness and acclimatization due to its altitude. The standard route is considered moderate in terms of difficulty, but the weather conditions can be unpredictable and harsh. Wind and cold temperatures can test your endurance, so be prepared for rapidly changing conditions. The climb itself is a rewarding endeavor for those looking for a less commercialized experience, with stunning views of the surrounding Andes and a sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit.

Access to Marmolejo is relatively straightforward, but logistics should not be underestimated. You'll need to plan for permits and possibly mule support to carry gear to the base camp. While there are no technical climbing sections, the mountain's altitude and potential for severe weather require respect and preparation. For those interested, there are 4 guides offering expeditions to Marmolejo, providing options for those who prefer the security of a guided climb.

Marmolejo

When you set your sights on Nevado del Plomo in Argentina, you're looking at a peak that stands at an impressive 6,070 meters. Nestled in the southern Andes, this mountain offers a climb that's both challenging and rewarding. The ascent is typically approached from the west, with routes that vary in difficulty, allowing for a range of experiences depending on your chosen path. The terrain is characterized by snow and ice, demanding proficiency in technical mountaineering skills, particularly when you approach the summit.

As you make your way up Nevado del Plomo, you'll encounter mixed conditions and need to be prepared for sudden weather shifts. The high altitude means acclimatization is crucial, so plan your ascent with enough time to adjust. The climbing season typically runs from December to March, when conditions are most favorable. You'll find the mountain less crowded compared to other popular peaks in the region, offering a more solitary and serene environment.

Approaching the summit, the views open up to stunning vistas of the Andes and nearby peaks. The sense of isolation and the sheer beauty of the landscape make the climb a memorable experience. There are about 10 guides available who offer expeditions to Nevado del Plomo, providing logistics support and local expertise if needed. Tailor your climb according to your experience and preferences, and you'll find this mountain a worthy addition to your climbing repertoire.

Nevado del Plomo

Climbed from Sajama town. Which is either a $90 taxi from La Paz, or $10 on public transport.

Once in Sajama you can walk to the base camp in 3-4 hours, or use one of many guide/services from the town - either transport only (to and from base camp), or including a guide.

Mount Sajama, the highest peak in Bolivia, reaches an impressive height of 6,542 meters. This extinct stratovolcano stands within the Sajama National Park, offering a challenging yet rewarding climb for seasoned mountaineers. The ascent is typically approached from the small village of Sajama, which provides a straightforward starting point. The climb itself is not technically demanding, but the high altitude and potential for extreme weather conditions should not be underestimated.

The route most commonly taken is the southwest ridge, offering a mix of snow, ice, and rock climbing. As you ascend, the stunning views of the Andes unfold, providing a remarkable backdrop to the climb. The snow conditions vary depending on the season, with the dry season (May to September) generally offering more stable conditions. It's crucial to be prepared for the cold and the potential for sudden weather changes. The combination of altitude, cold, and the length of the climb makes it a serious endeavor, requiring proper acclimatization and experience in high-altitude climbing.

Reaching the summit of Sajama is a test of endurance and skill, but the panoramic views from the top are a worthy reward. From the summit, you can see distant peaks and the vast altiplano below, an inspiring sight for any climber. It's advisable to thoroughly plan your climb, taking into account the logistics and weather patterns typical for this region. There are 11 guides offering expeditions up Sajama, providing various levels of support for those looking to tackle this Bolivian giant.

The starting point for the ascent of Sajama, located at the foot of the mountain. Climbers acclimatize and prepare here before heading up. A small stream provides water.

Base Camp

Located at a strategic point on the mountain, this camp serves as the final staging area before the summit push. There is a lot of snow/ice to make water from.

High Camp

The highest point in Bolivia, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Andes and surrounding areas. A very broad flat summit.

Summit

The climb of Sajama involves a straightforward route starting from the Base Camp at 4750m, with a single intermediate stop at High Camp at 5650m before reaching the Summit at 6542m.

The North west ridge is the typical route these days, with one of two base camps to use (depending on whether you drive or walk in) and one high camp.

Sajama

Cotopaxi, standing proudly in Ecuador, is one of the world's highest active volcanoes, reaching an impressive height of 5,897 meters. For mountaineers, it offers a classic climb with its near-perfect conical shape and snow-capped peak. The ascent generally begins from the refuge at 4,800 meters, providing a straightforward route that demands respect for its altitude. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, with potential for high winds and sudden temperature drops—elements that add to the challenge but also to the allure of the climb.

The difficulty of Cotopaxi isn't purely technical, but its high altitude can be a significant factor for those not adequately acclimatized. The climb itself involves a mix of glacier travel, requiring crampons and ice axes, and a keen awareness of potential crevasse hazards. As you progress upwards, the sunrise over the Ecuadorian Andes offers breathtaking views, a reward for the pre-dawn start and the effort involved. Reaching the summit is a testament to endurance and preparation, with the crater offering a unique perspective of this active stratovolcano.

Cotopaxi's conditions can vary greatly throughout the year, with the dry season typically providing more favorable climbing conditions. Snow and ice cover can change, requiring adaptability and vigilance. It's worth noting that there are 19 guides offering climbs up Cotopaxi, each bringing their own experience and understanding of the mountain's nuances. Whether you're drawn by the challenge or the beauty, Cotopaxi stands as a rewarding climb for those prepared to face its heights.

Cotopaxi 

Chachani, located in southern Peru, is a prominent peak for those who seek a less technical yet rewarding climb. Towering at an impressive 6,057 meters, it offers a unique Andean experience without the complexities of glaciers and steep ice faces often found in other peaks in the region. The mountain stands as a dormant volcano, providing a varied landscape that is both challenging and exhilarating for seasoned mountaineers. The climb typically starts from the city of Arequipa, which serves as an excellent base for acclimatization due to its elevation of 2,335 meters.

The ascent of Chachani is typically undertaken in two days, with the option for an alpine start to reach the summit before sunrise. The route is primarily a non-technical hike, but the altitude and weather conditions can test even the most prepared climbers. The path takes you through volcanic ash and scree slopes, which can be demanding on the legs. Despite the lack of technical obstacles, the altitude can be a significant factor, so proper acclimatization is crucial. Views from the summit encompass a vast panorama of the surrounding Andes, including some of the region's highest peaks.

Conditions on Chachani can vary, with temperatures dropping significantly at night and winds picking up on the exposed slopes. The dry season, from May to November, is the most favorable time to attempt the climb, offering clearer skies and more stable weather. While the ascent may not require technical climbing skills, it demands respect for the mountain environment and careful planning. For those interested in organized expeditions, there are 9 guides offering climbs up this majestic peak, providing support and logistics for a successful summit bid.

Chachani

Mount Misti, a striking stratovolcano, towers over the city of Arequipa, Peru, reaching a height of 5,822 meters (19,101 feet). Its symmetrical cone is an iconic sight, enticing climbers with its challenging yet rewarding ascent. The climb generally begins from the base at around 3,200 meters, and the route is straightforward, although the altitude can present significant challenges. With its distinct lack of vegetation and year-round snow cover near the summit, Misti offers an intense experience for seasoned mountaineers who are prepared for the thin air and shifting weather conditions.

The ascent of Misti is typically undertaken over two days. The first day involves a trek to the base camp at Nido de Aguilas, situated at about 4,500 meters. This initial climb is a test of endurance and acclimatization, as it traverses sandy ash and volcanic rocks. The second day's push to the summit is when the challenge truly peaks. The path is steep and can be slippery due to loose scree and volcanic gravel. As you approach the summit, the air grows thinner, and the temperatures drop significantly, demanding extra layers and resilience. The reward at the top is a breathtaking view of the surrounding Andes and a glimpse into the smoking crater of the volcano.

Weather conditions on Misti can be unpredictable, with the possibility of strong winds and sudden temperature changes. It's crucial to be well-prepared with appropriate clothing and gear. While the route isn't technically difficult, the high altitude and the terrain require good physical condition and prior acclimatization experience. The descent offers its own set of challenges, as you navigate the same loose scree slopes. There are currently 15 guides offering expeditions up Misti, providing support for those who prefer to climb with local expertise.

El Misti

Misti

Cayambe in Ecuador is a mountain that offers a rewarding climb for those who seek an adventure beyond the usual routes. Standing at an impressive height of 5,790 meters, it is the third highest peak in the country and the only mountain on the equator with a permanent snow cap. The climb begins from the Cayambe Refuge at 4,600 meters, where a straightforward path leads through rocky terrain and glacier fields. The approach to the glacier is gradual, and the initial ascent provides a good opportunity to acclimatize while taking in the striking landscape of the Andes.

The climb itself is a mix of moderate snow and ice routes, making it a worthy challenge for mountaineers with some experience in glacier travel. The main difficulties arise as you navigate crevasses and ascend steep sections of ice, which require careful footwork and sound rope technique. The weather conditions on Cayambe can change rapidly, with clear mornings giving way to afternoon snowstorms, so it’s crucial to start early. The reward is a breathtaking summit view that stretches from the Amazon basin to the peaks of the Andes.

Cayambe's location on the equator is unique, offering a distinct experience compared to other climbs in the region. While the mountain is accessible year-round, the best climbing conditions are typically found from December to February and from June to August, when the weather is more stable. A total of 9 experienced guides offer expeditions up Cayambe, so while you may not need one, they are available if you prefer local expertise during your ascent.

Cayambe

Rising to an elevation of 5,752 meters, Mount Pisco in Peru offers a classic Andean ascent that holds appeal for both novice and seasoned mountaineers. Located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca range, Pisco is often chosen as an introductory climb to acclimatize and prepare for more challenging summits in the region. The mountain's accessibility, combined with its relatively straightforward route, makes it a popular choice. The journey begins at the Llanganuco Valley, where stunning views of turquoise lakes serve as a backdrop for the trek to base camp. From there, climbers navigate the glacier-covered slopes, negotiating crevasses while gradually making their way to the summit.

Despite its reputation as a less demanding peak, Pisco should not be underestimated. The ascent requires a good level of fitness and familiarity with alpine conditions. The climb is typically approached over two days, allowing climbers to acclimatize and tackle the technical sections at a manageable pace. The route generally involves a mix of snow and ice, with sections that require crampons and ice axe proficiency. Weather conditions can be unpredictable, with strong winds and sudden temperature drops being common, so it's crucial to be well-prepared and check forecasts regularly. The reward for reaching the summit is a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding peaks, including the majestic Huascarán and Alpamayo.

Climbing Pisco provides an excellent opportunity to experience the beauty and challenge of the Peruvian Andes without the extreme technical demands of more formidable mountains. The mountain's popularity means that support and logistics are well-established, with 13 guides offering expeditions for those seeking assistance or companionship on the climb. Whether you choose to go it alone or with a group, Pisco promises an unforgettable adventure in one of the world's most stunning mountain ranges.

Andean Trails - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Andean Trails

Tupungato
$3,195

Marmolejo
$2,056

Nevado del Plomo
$2,250

Sajama
$1,488

Cotopaxi
$1,499

Cotopaxi
$2,128

Chachani
$633

Misti
$635

Cayambe
$1,499

Pisco
$634

Can't Find the Right Guide?

Andean Trails - Reviews, Ratings, & Trips

Trips offered by Andean Trails

Tupungato$3,195

Marmolejo$2,056

Nevado del Plomo$2,250

Sajama$1,488

Cotopaxi $1,499

Cotopaxi $2,128

Chachani$633

Misti$635

Cayambe$1,499

Pisco$634